Basement Leaks

All areas below the grade line are susceptible to water at one time or another. A house with water problems does not necessarily mean it was poorly constructed. It's a fact of home construction.

The most common cause of basement water problems is inadequate surface grading and drainage. In general, over 90% of basement water problems are the result of neglected gutters and downspouts or improper grading. A very small percentage of basement moisture problems are the result of high water table.

Basement moisture problems are not always obvious. Moldy or musty odors are not always present during the time of inspection, and signs of moisture may be hidden by interior finishes.

Some of the signs to look for are foundation walls that are cracked or bulging. Efflorescence (a white powder mineral deposit) on masonry or concrete walls. Stains, discoloration or decay on window sills, sill plates, wood posts, furniture, cardboard boxes, or items known to have been in contact with the basement floor for an extended period. Bulging or lifting drywall tape, popped nails, bubbling or peeling paint and detaching wallpaper. Rust at the base of heating equipment, steel posts or appliances. Lifted floor tiles, buckled paneling and mildew on carpet.

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Direct one-time leaks occur infrequently and are due to specific conditions. Leaks may be the result of wind-driven rain into cracks or an abnormal early spring when melting snow cannot penetrate the frozen soil and instead finds its way down the side of the foundation where the soil is permeable due to heat loss.

Seepage may occur on a regular basis, but at a slower rate than direct leakage. This is noticeable in the fall or spring when heavy rainfall and melting snow cause the soil around the foundation to become saturated with water. The weeping tiles may not be able to carry the excess water away, subsequently, it seeps into the basement. Note that weeping tiles (or footing drains) were not commonly installed for homes built before 1950. Many are no longer effective due to deterioration, clogging or poor design, for houses that are 20 years or older.

Condensation is a significant source of basement moisture. When the basement air is humid, the moisture in the air condenses on cool surfaces such as cold water pipes, foundation walls or floor slab.

Some sources of basement moisture includes: improper grade (including driveways and walkways), clogged/overflowing gutters and downspouts flow too close to foundation. Ground water seepage through wall and floor cracks. Planting beds adjacent to the house (the soil tends to hold a significant amount of water), clogged/damaged weeping tiles (including poorly drained window wells) and rain penetration in small cracks (for example, between brick veneer and foundation wall)

Methods to reduce condensation include: improve ventilation by opening basement windows or installing an exhaust fan. Raise the temperature in the basement. Vent moist air to the exterior (such as from a clothes dryer or bathroom). Install a dehumidifier. Insulate cold water pipes and basement walls. Place a moisture barrier over the dirt floor in crawlspaces.

For further information contact your local building authorities or a licensed basement contractor.

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Poor Drainage- don't get soaked!

Of all the problems discovered during a home inspection, one of the most common, and most disconcerting, is poor surface drainage. Poor drainage is a problem that may exist from the start (original grading deficiencies), or it may develop over time. Frequently it is the result of an action taken by the property owner (or a neighbor), sometimes out of complete ignorance of the potential problems it can cause. It may be limited to the area immediately adjacent to the foundation, or it may involve the entire property and beyond.
Since an inspection will discover numerous problems with a given property, a home inspector must be able to put things into perspective with regard to priority and magnitude. But when it comes to drainage, extra attention and education of the client is frequently needed. Why? Because water can have a DEVASTATING effect on a structure, either directly (moisture damage/wood rot/fungus) or consequentially (soil related settlement/upheaval/lateral pressures/slip planes, etc.)

The tricky thing for the inspector, is that the potential for damage may actually exist, but with no current evidence of damage to observe and report! Many homes with persistent water intrusion problems will show no physical evidence of the ongoing problem, due to cleanup efforts of the owners. Therefore the inspector needs to be alert for conditions that COULD present a problem, and address them with the intensity as if they ARE a problem.

When a foundation is constructed, the excavation must extend beyond the limits of the foundation (typically 3 to 5 feet) to accommodate the forming of the foundation walls. This area outside the walls must then be "backfilled" after the walls are complete. Ideally the backfill soils should be compacted to prevent settlement, but frequently they are either not compacted or poorly compacted. The soils settle over time, under their own weight, and more quickly if they become wet. This results in depressions around the foundation that trap water and cause additional soil settlement. This is a real problem as drainage cannot escape these areas and water can impact the foundation and the bearing soils.
If the original backfill was uncompacted or very poorly compacted, the results can be dramatic and sudden with large depressions forming literally overnight. If the backfill was moderately compacted the settlement can take years, but gradually goes from positive drainage to flat slope, to reverse slope. In this scenario a homeowner may be unaware of this process (like watching your hair grow) till the first time there is water in the basement or crawlspace, or foundation movement begins.

Foundation settlement and/or upheaval. Poor drainage can result in wetting of the foundation bearing soils, which then consolidate under the weight of the foundation as the moisture leaves the soil. This is especially evident if the foundation (or a portion thereof) was placed on fill material. I have seen 100 year old homes with no history of movement suddenly settle after the drainage was changed, so the "test of time" only applies when environmental conditions are consistent. In some cases the simple condition of a blocked roof downspout can trigger a dorment condition. If expansive soils are present, the reverse can occur, with the soils swelling and exerting upward pressure on the foundation.

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Foundation wall lateral displacement
When backfill soils become saturated, due to poor drainage or other moisture intrusion, they exert considerably greater pressure on the foundation walls than when they are dry. This excess pressure can cause buckling or overturning of the foundation wall. Good foundation design will accommodate this pressure, but not all foundations are well designed!

Slide conditions
Hillside construction with poor drainage is potentially a recipe for disaster. Excessive moisture can lubricate slip planes causing the all too familiar videos seen on TV as the home slides off the hill. Even if a slip plane is not present, the home may undergo "creep" as the wet soils slowly move downslope. Poor drainage on the uphill side of homes with walkout basements can also exert overturning pressures on the home, causing rotation or lateral displacement.

Extreme mold
Water penetration, from poor drainage, into a crawlspace or basement is the usual cause of mold in these areas. Wet soils create elevated humidity conditions that mold thrives in. Areas with mold may not always be visible, so one needs to suspect its presence when poor drainage is observed.

Home set too low on the lot
Some homes are set too low on the lot, with no way to add soil to improve drainage while maintaining clearance between the ground and wood framing (most codes require at least 6" clearance). In these cases there are basically two choices - raise the house, or regrade the yard.

Raising the house can be done but is very expensive and therefore rarely done. Regrading can be accomplished by cutting the soil down and away from the foundation at the required slope, and creating a swale system to carry the drainage to a low spot on the lot. If the low spot is below the natural drainage discharge point, a "sump" condition with pump may be needed to "lift" the water to the discharge point. This solution has its obvious drawbacks, but is better than allowing the drainage to affect the foundation.
Another possible solution, that I would not recommend unless special attention is given to waterproofing the existing structure, would be to install a retaining wall adjacent to the house, thus allowing the grade to be raised at the house. This solution is frequently seen, poorly performed, when landscape ties are laid up against the home and soil is added to improve the slope. This can result in wood rot to the siding and/or framing as moisture can penetrate the tie joints, and become trapped between the house and the ties. Any moisture accumulation in the wall cavity (from any source) will have difficulty escaping with this "solution" as well. Hence, this "solution" to one problem creates other problems, and should be avoided unless professionally designed and approved by the local building department.

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Homeowner Tips

Do not do anything to create poor drainage. Resist the temptation to install solid landscape barriers around the foundation that can trap drainage. Add soil to settled areas to maintain flow away from the foundation. Discharge your roof drainage beyond the limits of the backfill soils (3 to 5 feet from the foundation) with splash blocks or downspout extenders. Clean you gutters regularly as clogged gutters/downspouts can overspill water adjacent to the foundation. Resist the temptation to install sprinkler adjacent to the foundation (unless you live in an area with shallow/slab foundations and expansive soils, where moisture stabilization via wetting is the norm).

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Inspector Tips

Look at the ground adjacent to the foundation by sighting along the foundation from each corner. There should be positive slope away from the foundation, preferably on the order of 5% (3" fall in the first 5 feet) as a minimum. If flat slope or reverse slope exists, you have to suspect that infiltration could be an issue even if there is no interior evidence. Report on it as having "the potential to cause infiltration and/or structural damage if not corrected". Also, scan the site for non draining conditions. Make a note if there appears to be large offsite flow contributions. Keep in mind that grass areas need 2% slope (2 feet in 100 feet, or approximately 1/4" per foot) as a minimum in order to drain. To the eye a 2% slope will appear quite flat (use a 4 foot level when in doubt). Landscape swales need 2% slope along the flow-line as a minimum. Less than 2% slope can be accommodate with a french drain. Look for soggy flow-lines and/or fungus growth in the swales that would indicate non-draining or slow draining conditions.

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Realtor Tips

Listing Agents - make sure your seller discloses any water infiltration problems.

Buyer's Agents - be nosey and ask direct questions of the seller and listing agent. Obtain and provide a copy of the Seller's Disclosure statement to the inspector so he/she can follow up on any historical issues.

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Well & Septic Information

The following information is taken from the Pa. Department of Environmental Protection, New Home Buyers guide and is a suggested course of maintenance. Each property is different and may have special needs. Regular inspection is the best insurance for continued proper function.

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Maintaining Your Well

If you're one of the thousands of homeowners in the region who use drinking water from a well, it's up to you to make sure your water is clean and safe. Even though wells can become contaminated by bacteria or chemicals, few government regulations apply to private water supplies. At present, wells are subject to regulations only when they are installed.

When obtaining clean water as a do-it-yourself operation, the health of everyone in your household is at stake. It's essential to protect the water entering your system, to properly maintain your well, and to check that your water is safe and free of offensive tastes or odors.

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Wells

Chemical disinfection by chlorination is necessary to assure safe bacterial levels in new or repaired wells. The most readily available disinfectant is a solution of one gallon of ordinary laundry bleach (5.25% chlorine) thoroughly mixed with four gallons of water. After preparing the disinfectant, follow these steps:

- Remove the well cap or the vent pipe plug if your well is equipped with a sanitary well seal.
- Pour half of the chlorine solution directly into a dug well or between the drop pipe and outer casing of a drilled well.
- Using a garden hose, run water directly into the well until you detect a chlorine odor. Continue adding water for 15 minutes.
- Turn off the water supply to the hose and proceed to systematically open the hot and cold water valves for each fixture in the house. Allow the water to run until a distinct chlorine odor is present.
- Close all valves, stop your pump, and add the remaining chlorine mixture to your well. Then recap the well or replace the vent pipe or plug. Leave all valves in the house closed for 12 to 24 hours. (Toilets may be flushed, however, when necessary.)
- After 12 to 24 hours, restart the pump and open every household fixture and the garden hose and let the water run until the chlorine odor disappears.

Your well should now be properly disinfected, but before using the water, have it tested.
Even disinfection cannot ensure the safety of private water supplies that are not properly located or constructed. Local conditions including topography and soil types will determine the minimum distance required between a private water supply and potential contamination sources such as septic tanks and agricultural sites. Check with township officials for local restrictions.

Because proper maintenance of your cistern or well is so important to the well-being of everyone in your household, we recommend that you consult additional resources as needed.

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Getting Started

If you're purchasing a residence with an existing well or cistern and are not familiar with private water supplies, here are some points worth noting:

- Before buying a home with a cistern or well, obtain written proof of the safety of the water and specific details on the construction and siting of the water supply (and any treatment system attached).
- Have the water supply tested for bacteria, nitrates, and any other substances as warranted by local conditions. Dug (shallow) wells tend to be more vulnerable to contamination than drilled wells.
Learn how to properly use and dispose of toxic household and yard chemicals to prevent contamination of your water supply.
- Continue monitoring your water by testing it at least once a year.

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Managing an Onsite System

Township sewage enforcement officers assist with determining a suitable location and design for a septic system as well as issuing the permit for the system. A soil scientist conducts a soil evaluation at the site. This test will determine the type of system that will need to be installed.

Scattered throughout our area are thousands of residences that are not served by central sewage treatment systems. At these homesites, sewage treatment becomes a do-it-yourself operation. These homeowners must give consideration to processing and disposing of wastewater right on their property, in other words, "onsite". Some homeowners give little thought to their onsite system or, amazingly, even realize they have one until it malfunctions causing odors, sogginess, potential health hazards, and water pollution. Remember permits and an approved design are needed before installation of a sand mound or septic tank on your property. If you have an onsite system, it's important to understand how it works and how to keep it working smoothly in order to add life and save you money by doing regular maintenance.

The most widely used type of onsite system in our region (and in the U.S.) is the septic tank with a soil absorption system. It provides wastewater treatment in two stages. First, wastewater is discharged to a septic tank, a buried watertight tank in which household wastes can settle to the bottom to be decomposed by bacteria into sludge. Lighter materials such as grease float to the top and form scum which is trapped in the tank by baffles.

During the second stage of treatment, the septic tank liquid or effluent discharges to a soil absorption system (also called a drain field or leach field). This system is a network of underground perforated pipes, out the holes, and into the soil which acts as a filter, removing the remaining suspended substances, pollutants, and bacteria.
In our region, the operation of conventional onsite systems frequently is hampered by steep slopes, seasonal high water tables, limited depth to bedrock, and low permeability of soils.

Modifications to conventional systems or alternative onsite systems often provide more effective treatment. Alternative systems in use include sand filters, aerobic systems ("cavitette" units), and mound systems. Both sand filters and mound systems are used in combination with septic tanks. Like conventional systems, alternative systems require careful siting, design, and maintenance to ensure proper functioning.

There are several things you can do to help your onsite system perform well. The following guidelines are most applicable to conventional systems, but in some ways also apply to alternative systems:

- Know the location of your septic tank and soil absorption field. This information is essential for routine maintenance and when digging in your yard.
- Have your septic tank pumped at least every three years to remove the accumulated sludge and scum (called "septage"). Larger households will generally require more frequent septic tank pumping. Also, keep track of when your tank is pumped.
- Don't use septic tank additives or "starters". Chemicals, yeast, bacteria, enzymes, or other products which claim to improve septic tank operation may actually harm the system and contribute to groundwater pollution.
- If your system has a pump or other electrical components, be sure to properly maintain them. Make sure that all electrical components are waterproof. After a power failure, it's important to check that all components are again operating properly.
- Practice water conservation to avoid overworking your system and to extend its life. Some ways of lowering water use include installing flow restrictors in the shower, using low water-use washing machines, toilets and dishwashers, not letting household water run excessively, and quickly repairing leaky faucets and fixtures.
- Divert runoff away from your soil absorption system to avoid saturating the soil. Excess water may cause effluent to rise to the surface causing soggy ground and foul odors. Make sure that water from gutter downspouts and runoff from driveways and other paved areas is directed away from the drain field.
- Don't construct anything over your onsite system. Structures and pavement can compact the soil and prevent it from absorbing, filtering, and evaporating the effluent. They can also hinder routine maintenance or repair of the system.
- Don't park or drive cars over your onsite system. Heavy vehicles can not only compact the soil and reduce its ability to filter effluent but can compress or break underground pipes and they can also make access to the system difficult for pumping, inspection, and repair. Grass or other low-growing plants are the best vegetative cover for an onsite system.
- Be careful about what you flush into the system. Substances that do not readily decompose can clog the system and increase the need for pumping.
- If your onsite system has two alternating drain fields, switch them every 6 to 12 months to allow the resting field to rejuvenate.
- Inspect your system at least once a year. Bright green grass growing over the drain field, especially during the drier months, often indicates that the system is malfunctioning and effluent is rising near the surface. It's also wise to check sludge and scum levels inside the septic tank and make sure the tank's baffles are intact.

By understanding and properly managing your onsite system, you will not only enhance your property and immediate neighborhood but you will also prevent public health hazards and the pollution of groundwater and nearby streams and lakes.
Managing your individual onsite system can begin with a simple awareness of your household habits. Here are a few "do's" and "don'ts" to start practicing right now:

- Do wash only full loads of laundry and spread your laundry chores throughout the week to avoid overloading your onsite system.
- Do use phosphate-free detergent to prolong the useful life of your system.
- Do use good quality toilet paper that breaks up easily when wet.
- DON'T deposit coffee grounds, cooking fats, wet-strength paper towels, disposable diapers, facial tissues, cigarette butts, or similar materials that do not easily decompose.
- DON'T dump grease down the drain. It can build up in the septic tank and plug the inlet.
- DON'T use a garbage disposal unless you're prepared to have your septic tank pumped out at least once a year.

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GFCI Protection

A ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) is an electrical device, either a receptacle or circuit breaker, which is designed to protect people from electric shock in a wet or damp environment.

GFCI protection should not be confused with grounding. Even if a system is properly grounded, minor faults in a circuit can cause a dangerous shock to a person using an appliance in a damp location or near water.

The GFCI senses the flow of electricity through a circuit. If more current is flowing through the black, or hot wire than the white or neutral wire, there is a current leakage (a "ground fault"). The GFCI can detect a leakage as little as five thousands of an amp (.005 amps), which will shut off the current in 1/40 of a second to prevent injury.

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Where to Look For GFCI Protection

All outdoor receptacles, receptacles at hot tubs, spas and around swimming pools. Receptacles and supplies for fountain or pool pumps and related equipment. All bathroom receptacles, all receptacles at kitchen countertop surfaces, wet bars and laundry tubs. At least one receptacle in the basement and crawl spaces, all receptacles in the garage (except one marked for freezer). All lighting in high-risk areas such as wet bars, bathtubs, spas, saunas, or showers.

If you have GFCI's, it is recommended that you test (and reset) them monthly. On a GFCI receptacle when you push the TEST button, the RESET button should pop out, hence shutting off the circuit. However, failure of the GFCI to trip in response to its own TEST button may or may not indicate a real defect. There may be an absence of ground, and the TEST button does nothing.

The absence of ground has no effect on the operation of the GFCI. The device should work if there is a real short to ground. That is why a GFCI receptacle should be used in the areas listed above if you currently have KNOB and TUBE wiring, which is an ungrounded circuit. For such installations, GFCI receptacles should also be tested with a GFCI tester/analyzer for added assurance. These are available at your local hardware stores.

There is a button on the tester that should trip the circuit within a couple of seconds and the RESET button should pop out. If the RESET button pops out when the TEST button is pressed on the receptacle, but not when the tester/analyzer is used, there is a defect with the receptacle. Use your tester to be sure that the power is off.

The same procedure should be done with a GFCI breaker. The GFCI will be located in the distribution or service panel. The breaker can be identified by a TEST button in addition to the breaker switch. Press the TEST button and the breaker switch should trip. Switch the breaker back to the ON position. Do this once a month - breakers have a tendency to stick, and may not protect you when needed. If you have a GFCI breaker you should also use a GFCI tester/analyzer to test the receptacles in the vulnerable areas listed above. Note that the receptacle may appear like a normal receptacle without any TEST or RESET buttons, but may be protected in the circuit by the GFCI breaker.

Remember to reset the breaker to the ON position after the tester/analyzer has tripped the breaker. If your house does not have GFCI protection, an electrician can add it. This is an important safety improvement. Electrical wiring and device installation should be handled by a licensed electrician.

For further information contact your local public utilities office or a licensed electrician.

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Why Home Inspection Standards of Practice are Important

A home seller or home buyer may hear their professional inspector refer to Standards of Practice, but may not see how such Standards impact them.

Standards of Practice are established to offer a level of consistency among inspectors. While most consumers have an idea what is involved when getting a physical from their family doctor, or a tune-up for their automobile, very few have an understanding about a typical home inspection.

By setting standards, inspectors are able to develop a minimum expectation level for users of their services. When an inspector follows recognized Standards of Practice, consumers receive a home inspection report that includes important information on the essential components of the property, including the roof, foundation, heating, plumbing, electrical, among others.

Following recognized standards is essential to providing valuable information. The American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) Standards of Practice, Click here, Standards, mandate that an inspection report contains important information, and provides the consumer with piece of mind that the property has been thoroughly examined.

Inspectors who do not follow a recognized Standard of Practice may be placing themselves at risk. In fact, most states allow a judicial authority to use the Standards of Practice of ASHI, or other nationally recognized organizations, as the duty of care applied to a home inspection.

A professional inspection is just good business. It facilitates a smoother and more informed decision making process. Anyone advising against an inspection is doing a disservice to those involved in the transaction. How can you know if an inspector follows recognized Standards of Practice? The best way is to be sure that the inspector is a member of a recognized professional association such as ASHI.

ASHI requires its members to successfully pass a written test of property systems and complete 20 hours of education each year. Members can accumulate credits through various sources of education including monthly chapter meetings, conferences, and other approved activities. ASHI keeps records to ensure that members are complying with the requirements. Educational topics cover a variety of technical subjects including updates and advances that affect property inspection and the business of real estate inspection. ASHI is dedicated to consumer protection and education. To locate a qualified ASHI inspector near you, call ASHI at 800-743-ASHI/2744, or visit the ASHI Web site at www.ashi.com

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